5 emerging brands to watch from New Zealand Fashion Week

New Zealand Fashion Week is always a personal highlight for me each year for so many reasons. It’s all about celebrating the iconic designers that have paved the way and continue to inspire. It’s about supporting the young designers who are dreaming big and gaining momentum and exposure locally and internationally. And, it’s also about discovering the new emerging designers who are risking it all and showing for the very first or second time in collection shows.

This year’s line up of emerging designers didn’t disappoint. Not only did it include the likes of young but incredibly successful designers like Maggie Marilyn and Paris Georgia, but it also included Project Runway winner Benjamin Alexander and newcomer Mina. Diversity was also a huge focus for many designer this week, and I was really impressed by the incredible diversity of models in many of the shows with a variety of ages, ethnicities and sizes walking the runway. I love that the New Zealand fashion industry embraces everyone for their natural beauty. For a round up, below are my five favourite new emerging designer from the week.

Benjamin Alexander

I have followed Benjamin Alexander for some time now and have fallen in love with his feminine but strong designs. His show was one on the schedule I was very excited to see – and it ended up being a highlight of my whole week. His attention to detail was incredible for a designer showing for the very first time. Not only did he collaborate with Mi Piaci to create a range of shoes to compliment his collection but his accessories, hair, makeup, model casting, music, light-filled location and production was all carefully considered.

His collection as a whole was inspired by his home, his friends and his family. It celebrated everyone that is behind his brand including his makers in New Zealand to his suppliers across the globe, “For without them, we are nothing,” says the designer. I personally fell in love with his feminine yet tailored silhouettes, the neutral colour palette and the beautiful fabrics. My wish list from this show was long, which is a compliment to Benjamin Alexander and his talented mind – he is definitely one New Zealand designer to watch and a highlight from the week.

Mina

On Thursday morning, I started the day with a beautiful breakfast hosted by newcomer Mina in collaboration with Auckland cafe, Orphan’s Kitchen. This was a match made in heaven for so many reasons. The Mina brand, founded by designer Natalie Proctor, is built on providing refined and effortless staples for the understated and modern woman – favouring high quality fabrics and simple luxe designs all made in a conscious way. Orphan’s Kitchen is known for its garden to table philosophy and for its simplicity and sustainability. So when I saw these two align – it was the perfect combination.

An elegant presentation – while we were seated at our beautiful tables, the models weaved their way through the room, delicately placing plates on the guests tables. It was an interactive and intimate show that allowed everyone in the room to see the fabrics and designs up close in person. The collection named ‘Walking the Bushveld’, was inspired by designer Natalie’s recent trip to South Africa to visit her roots. The collection is a subtle embodiment of the African culture and tonal landscapes she saw. 

Campbell Luke

Campbell Luke was another highlight from the week that touched many. I don’t think there was a dry eye left in the room when his show ended and guests spontaneously performed a Haka tautoko (supporting Haka) for designer Bobby Luke. I had a very big proud kiwi moment.

The collection ‘Kakahu Hau’ was inspired by Carte De visite – the Instagram of the 1800s. The Carte De Visite was the first photograph produced on paper. “Curiosity among European settlers about New Zealand’s ‘other’ culture created a lucrative market for images of Māori. The collection seeks to reverse the concept of colonisation and seeks a harmonious contemporary approach,” said designer Bobby Luke. The collection also celebrated Bobby’s Mounga (mountain) Taranaki, his iwi, his family and the histories it holds.

His first solo show, the Campbell Luke collection presented on the runway included a neutral colour palette including cream, white, grey, khaki and beige, soft feminine fabrications, luxe knitwear, and an accent floral print that all came together beautifully.

The live Kapa Haka Roopu from Te Kura Kaupapa Māori o Hoani Waititi Marae who performed for the entire show was felt throughout the room and it was clear everyone was filled with pride and respect. Truly a moment from New Zealand Fashion Week that moved many and something I will personally always remember.

Olli

Another highlight from the week was designer Holly Norman, who showed her label Olli as part of one of the collection shows. The collection ‘Go Freddie’, was born from the desire to reshape the ugly. “Drawing inspiration from the modest trends of the 1500’s, Olli has produced a delicate series which provokes thought and emotion,” said the designer. The collection included exaggerated ruffles and long sleeves, a beautiful pastel colour palette, cute branded accessories and touches of metallic.

Furg

And finally, Furg was the fifth emerging designer that caught my eye this week in the New Generation show. Designer Georgia Ferguson, said “the collection, Black Sheep, was developed and made concurrently alongside a written thesis. It represents the black sheep effect. I myself have felt like a black sheep and the resulting collection itself is a black sheep, slightly off and seemingly out of place.”

On the runway it was clear to see the designer’s ethos of creating garments that are sustainable, durable and can have a long life span. The colour palette included pale blues, tones of brown, beige and white pared back with snake skin prints and delicate lace. The design also mentioned the majority of the fabrics were natural fibers such as wool, silk, cotton and merino.

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