6 tips on race-ready headwear according to master milliner Stephen Jones
In the lofty world of haute millinery, Stephen Jones’s name holds more clout than anyone. What sets the British designer apart, aside from his astounding ability to conjure wild imaginings into three dimensions, is his enduring relevance after almost 40 years in the business. From working with the plucky young talents flung up from the creative hotbeds of his home base in London (Matty Bovan, Ryan Lo) to collaborating with uncountable stalwarts (Dior, Schiaparelli, Comme des Garçons) and crafting headpieces for royalty (both fashion and real), Jones is the authority in hats. The master milliner, whose creations are now available on our shores at Harrolds, spoke to Vogue about his creative processes and offered practical advice for race day.
Image credit: Marc Jacobs spring/summer 2020
Balancing act
“The hat has to be chosen in harmony with the outfit. Never think of the outfit and then the hat – think of it all together and you inside it at the centre of attention.”
Image credit: Christian Dior spring/summer 2020
Choosing haute for hot weather
“Obviously a brim is good. Lightness too, but not so light that it’s going to blow off your head. [Check] if it’s got a cotton ribbon inside as opposed to nylon. It’s also best to use bobby pins to grip the hat.”
Image credit: Christian Dior haute couture autumn/winter ’19/’20
To keep in mind when choosing a hat
“The occasion for which it is being worn. Women need to go in with an open mind and have the courage to experiment. Resist going into an appointment with girlfriends or family, because they will choose something they would like to see you in, not necessarily what you want to be wearing.”
Image credit: Marc Jacobs spring/summer 2020
Runway to reality
“Editorial hats are often big in scale, so they have to be graded smaller for real life. This is because they’re often seen over a lunch table or a cocktail party rather than on a fashion runway.”
Image credit: Valentino haute couture autumn/winter ’19/’20
Taking it in hand
“You can use any [materials], that’s the wonderful thing about millinery, but we have to find the right process for the right material, whether it’s mechanical or by hand. A hat is a three-dimensional object, so most things need to be done by hand. You never stop learning and you never stop inquiring how to make an excellent collection.”
Image credit: Fendi spring/summer 2020
On inspiration
“The theme of the season inspires me to make a particular hat and that can be anything from a painting to a hair pin. [Collaboration is] very important as that challenges my idea of beauty and ugliness. Of course, when you’re making a hat, you’re creating a form, which could be likened to sculpture, but the big difference is that this is sculpture that has to go on somebody’s head and beautify them.”
Image credit: Michael Kors spring/summer 2020
Sydney-based milliner Carole Maher, host of the Harrolds millinery salon, also shared her top tips with Vogue on mastering headwear. Heed her advice ahead of the Melbourne Cup Carnival.
“In hotter climates you must be comfortable. My go-tos for trans-seasonal fabrics are leather, feathers or high-tech fabrics such as crinoline.”
“If you’re purchasing millinery directly from the designer, always ask for a picture of how to style the hat. I have seen many hats worn backwards, usually as a result of hairdressers not understanding how the hat should be positioned on your head.”
“For a front mounted ‘percher’, be sure to wear the small hat or headpiece on the forehead just over the right eye, unless it’s a centred style. If your parting is on the left, ask the milliner to make the hat for the left side of your head.”
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Image credit: Prada spring/summer 2020
Heading to the Melbourne Cup Carnival? The Victoria Racing Club will unveil a reimagined Birdcage for 2019. For details, go to www.flemington.com.au.
This article originally appeared in Vogue Australia’s October 2019 issue.