Bakuchiol: what you need to know about the skincare ingredient
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11th Jun 2019
Touted as a natural alternative to retinol, bakuchiol is fast becoming the go-to for skincare aficionados eager to partake in the benefits of the anti-ageing ingredient. Pinterest threw a spotlight on the wonder ingredient in its 2019 trend report, noting a 275 per cent increase in searches in late 2018, calling it out as the next big thing in beauty. So where did bakuchiol come from and why should you consider slipping it into your regimen? Read on to find out.
What is bakuchiol?
An extract from Psoralea Corylifolia, a plant often used in the practice of Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine, bakuchiol is naturally occurring and generally better tolerated on the skin than retinoids. “Despite having no structural resemblance to retinoids, this botanical ingredient has been shown to act on the same genes in the skin to stimulate collagen production,” says Dr Cara McDonald, director of Complete Skin Specialists, adding, bakuchiol acts as a “potent anti-ageing compound.”
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What skin types is bakuchiol good for?
“I’d recommend bakuchiol for those with dry or sensitive skin. These people often struggle to tolerate topical retinoids,” says McDonald, adding that when compared to retinoids, bakuchiol has been shown to have less side effects as well as some anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties.
“It boosts collagen and improves skin texture – but without all the negative side effects associated with retinol usage (this includes redness, flaking and increased photosensitivity),” says Elsie Rutterford of English beauty brand Bybi, who have just launched a bakuchiol booster.
If you’re not particularly sensitive to retinoids, McDonald insists bakuchiol can be mixed into most skincare regimens, with or without retinoids, to further enhance your skin.
How do you use bakuchiol?
“We’ve combined one per cent bakuchiol (the highest concentration you can have in skincare) with 99 per cent skin-softening squalane,” says Rutterford, who insists the world is your oyster when it comes to mixing the wonder-ingredient into your daily routine.
Mix in with existing serums post-cleansing morning or night, or just apply solo – it’s really just a matter of how you and you’re skin are feeling. Bakuchiol doesn’t increase skin’s sensitivity to sunlight but as always, follow up with sunscreen in the morning.
Is there anything to be wary of when using bakuchiol?
Dr McDonald notes it’s important to approach bakuchiol, as with all new and relatively untested indigents, with some caution given the lack of data or research available.“At this stage only very few clinical trials have been done and therefore the level of evidence for bakuchiol is nowhere near that for retinoids,” says McDonald, adding that it’s also wise to keep in mind that while some ingredients are natural, the way they are bottled can often mean they’re not exactly green once they hit shelves.“Very few skincare products are made without chemical preservatives and plant-based ingredients don’t make products safer nor better-tolerated,” says McDonald.
Where can you buy bakuchiol?
Currently, there are only a handful of brands using bakuchiol but expect that to change as the demand increases. Brands currently offering up bakuchiol include, Bybi, Ren, Omorovicza, Tarte, Ole Henriksen and 111Skin.