Everything to know about the history of trainers
A passerby wearing Gucci sneakers in Paris, France, 2018.
The history of trainers is long and fast-paced, with various hurdles along the way. It begins in 1839, when an American scientist called Charles Goodyear invented vulcanised rubber: a process of adding sulphur to heated rubber to make a pliable substance, both waterproof and mouldable. Several decades later this groundbreaking process would be applied to shoes, allowing for more durable soles. Used primarily for plimsolls, variations of which have been around since the early 19th century, the ancestor to the modern-day trainer was born.
Dassler, founder of Adidas, in a new shoe factory, circa 1920s.
Skip forward to the early 20th century and two companies were working out how to capitalise on the vast potential of rubber-soled shoes – bringing them to the masses, rather than a privileged few. The US Rubber Company developed Keds, putting them on sale in 1916. A year later, Converse released its All Star shoe. By the early 1920s, with the endorsement of prominent basketball player and coach Chuck Taylor (whose name can still be found on All Stars today), the brand was booming. In 1924, German brothers Rudolf and Adolf “Adi” Dassler joined the game, creating their own business designing footwear for athletes from their mother’s laundry room.
Puma AG sneakers sit on display, 2010.
Primarily made and marketed for sporting activities, trainers quickly gained ground. Converse were worn by the American basketball team at the Berlin Olympics in 1936, while US runner Jesse Owen competed – and won four gold medals – wearing track shoes designed by the Dasslers. The brothers, who would part ways acrimoniously in the late 1940s, went on to control two of the sportswear behemoths of today: Adolf creating Adidas, Rudolf going his own way to found Puma.
Marilyn Monroe and Keith Andes filming of Clash by Night, 1952.
By the 1950s, kids in the US were already wearing trainers with their new denim jeans (a combination that caused consternation among some schools). It was a pairing that was also favoured by stars including Marlon Brando and Marilyn Monroe. Trainers were comfortable, casual and easy to move around in. In certain circles, they also signified rebelliousness, a willingness to step outside of society’s restrictive sartorial rules.
Nike Air Yeezy 2 Red October sneaker, 2019.
However, it took another decade or two for trainers to become truly commonplace. A continuing stalwart in the realm of sprinting, jumping and otherwise raising one’s heart rate, in the 1970s another label emerged, Nike. Named after the winged goddess of victory in Greek mythology, these were shoes that aimed to enhance athletic performance even further, the iconic “waffle tread” pattern on the sole said to be developed after track coach and co-founder Bill Bowerman poured rubber into his wife’s waffle iron.
Air Jordans during a game between the New York Knicks and the Chicago Bulls, 1995.
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By now trainers were being steadily marketed at young people who wanted to capture some of the cool of sports heroes and celebrities, as well as at an increasing number of fitness enthusiasts. And whether the object of one’s affections was basketball player Kareem Abdul-Jabbar springing for the hoop in his flat-soled Adidas or Farrah Fawcett sporting that instantly recognisable Nike tick, there was plenty of inspiration to choose from, athletic or otherwise. It was a pattern that continued into the 1980s, with Michael Jordan following in the footsteps of many sports forebears in 1984 when he lent his name to Nike’s Air Jordans. The same decade also saw the release of Reebok’s Freestyles, continuing the development of trainers marketed specifically to women.
LL Cool J at LeMeridien Hotel in Chicago, 1990.
Beyond the courts and pitches, trainers were also increasingly seen on the streets. A staple of the burgeoning hip-hop and rap scene, trainers graced the feet of everyone from LL Cool J to Grandmaster Flash to Run-DMC, existing as part of a sportswear-predicated aesthetic born out of black communities and artists, largely in east coast American cities. It’s a legacy that continues to this day, with many endorsements and collaborations along the way, including Jay Z’s deal with Reebok in 2003 and Kanye West’s best-selling Adidas Yeezys.
Run-DMC at Hammersmith Odeon London, 1986.
Trainers are now both ubiquitous and plural in their meanings. They speak to and participate in everything from class, to sports interests, to culture, to music taste, to a desire to bound around without feeling encumbered by uncomfortable footwear. Their existence on screen is just as multifaceted: from Jennifer Grey’s slightly scuffed plimsolls in , to Uma Thurman’s bright yellow trainers in completing her sunshine-bright ensemble, to , Ben Stiller’s red Adidas tracksuit off-set jarringly with blue trainers, to the numerous styles and designs seen in Spike Lee’s
Prada ready-to-wear spring/summer 2018, Milan Fashion week, 2017.
Our taste for them shows no sign of abating either. In fact, last year the global athletic footwear market was projected to hit US$95.14 billion by 2025. From established brands to high fashion houses (luxury labels from Prada to Gucci have cashed in on the public’s desire for trainers), the options are now endless. Current trends span 1990s nostalgia via some very thick soles – think Christopher Kane and Maison Margiela – through to Loewe’s classic black-and-white options, not to mention endless images on Instagram of Converse paired with slip dresses. With such a plethora of choice, it’s best foot forward, the options all comfortable, the directions fresh.
Farrah Fawcett-Majors on set of Charlie’s Angels ‘Consenting Adults’, 1976.
Beatles fans arriving for their concert at the Paris Palais des Sports, 1965.
Chanel sneakers spotted during London Fashion Week, 2018.
The Ramones in Los Angeles, California, 1976.