Not cleansing properly could be what’s standing between you and really great skin

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25th Jun 2019

Cleansing is like vanilla ice cream; a little dull and surrounded by more exciting skincare options, but an important foundation nonetheless. Flavour comparisons aside, cleansing also performs a vital function within your skincare routine, removing dirt, grime, make-up and sebum, and prepping your complexion for all the good bits to come.

It is for this reason that it’s important you wash your face properly, because failing to do so will leave you prone to congestion, dullness, and foundation stains on your white towels – case in point: make-up and skincare mogul Kylie Jenner. The beauty entrepreneur, who recently launched Kylie Skin, uploaded a video to her Instagram channel demonstrating her new foaming cleanser, but followers were quick to call out the fact she washed her face for a grand total of five seconds, and when she patted her skin dry, her towel was stained fifty shades of beige – not an ideal marketing move.

Obviously, Jenner is limited when to comes to simultaneous cleansing and filming, and the general consensus is that her products are good, but the whole incident has been a good lesson in proper cleansing so that serums, oils, and moisturisers have the best chance at success. To clue us in, Vogue spoke to Murad sales and education manager Katy Bacon on cleanser best practice. Read on for her tips.

When it comes to cleansers, what are some ingredients to look out for, and others to avoid?

“Some ingredients you want to avoid are parabens, phthalates and triclosan as they’re all known skin microbiome disruptors. Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are also commonly used surfactants that give skin that squeaky clean feeling.  The problem with SLS and SLES derivatives is they strip the skin of natural oils that our skin needs for protection, and can often lead to irritation.

It’s important to look for a cleanser that addresses your specific skin concerns. For example, salicylic acid is great for oily and acne-prone skin, where vitamin c and lactic acid are key skin brighteners.”

How long should you cleanse in order to effectively remove makeup and debris?

“At least 30 to 60 seconds, as this will allow any active in your cleanser to actually take effect. If your make-up is waterproof or oil-based, then you may choose to use a make-up removal-specific cleanser prior to your treatment cleanser.”

What are your thoughts on double cleansing?

“I always recommend a double cleanse in the evening as make-up, pollution and grime can deeply penetrate the pores leading to dullness, breakouts and congestion.”

What do you think about granular or physical exfoliants in our cleansers? Are they good for some skins, or should they be avoided at all costs?

“Exfoliation is an important part of any skincare routine. Skin naturally renews itself every 30 days or so, however as we age this process slows down resulting in dull, congested and thickened skin.

There are two main options for exfoliation, granular or physical scrubs and chemical. Granular exfoliants are very effective when used correctly, and are suitable for most skin types, with the exception of sensitive or delicate skins that are prone to redness and irritation.

It’s important to note that not all scrubs are created equal though. Look for a granular exfoliant that does not contain walnut or any other fruit or nut shells, as this can damage skin and lead to sensitivity. The best forms of granular exfoliation are jojoba beads, pumice crystals or charcoal – even better in combination with chemically exfoliating ingredients such as lactic, glycolic or salicylic acids.”

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